How to rappel with atc reddit. Drop the PAS and opt for a double length sling, a single length sling and some Does anyone rappel with the GriGri instead of ATC style device? I've done it with the biner block method and it was comfortable and worked great but was curious if it is any less safe than double rope rapping with the ATC. From what I understand, the only method to do this is the sketchy leg-wrap-around. Black diamond ‘biners have locking mechanisms that are sub-par in sandy conditions IMO, avoid them. Fig8 twists the rope badly both on rappel, and on belay, unless you use it like an ATC. ATS, CRITR etc. Could you use a back up with a GriGri to make it safer? What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line? Are there any devices like the petzl reverso or black diamond atc that work on a 6mm rope? thanks in advance for help:) If I am out with an atc I use the usual method. So yes, 4 biners is for redundancy and additional strength. So here’s my question: what if I tie off an overhand on a bite below my ATC, and then clip myself into that via an extra QuickDraw or something? Then I could go hands free. Now, you can also use this device to rappel without a prusik. Both are valid. . Pass your rope through like you normally would, with both strands going to the ground. Beginners are often taught to rappel with a tube style device and then go on believing that that is the only way to rappel. Do you prefer to rappel from a double strand, eg a rope run through a ring at the halfway point with two strands going through an ATC guide? Or do you prefer to Figure-8-on-a-bight + Carabiner at the halfway point so it can't pass through the ring, rappel down a single strand using a GriGri/Fig8/ATC and pull the knotted side when you reach the ground? My local climbing course taught the first remove my ATC, set up a rap point (sacrificial beaner or quicklink - must be metal and not cordelette/webbing since the rope will rub through it unlike normal rappels) as close to the prussik on the rope as possible set my rap setup single strand on the break side of the rope, as close to the rap point as possible, backup hitch mandatory Hi all, So I have read through a bunch of other threads on here about choosing a belay device, but I haven't found one that answers all of my questions yet. All biners involved are having weight and force applied at angles and locations that they were never intended to face, nor were certified for. That gets repeated online and voila you get "You can't rappel on a grigri!" Use whatever method you prefer but know that other methods exist. Learn how to tie one (plenty of good youtube videos) with the device you plan to use (most commonly taught with an ATC, but works about the same with others) and you'll have a quick, secure way to block off a rappel and go hands free. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. Consider a figure 8 style device with some sort of way to control friction and lock off on rappel. I’d go with two large HMS/pear shaped ‘biners. It's easy to do a single rope rappel and get your rope down without any added slings or fuss. There is a variant, the ATC sport that can only be used with single ropes, and cannot readily be used for rappels. I will climb with a grigri for lead belaying and an ATC guide or gigi/ovo plate for belaying the follower. Ask yourself what you’d do if you dropped your only stick without a rappel rope handy? Rappelling involves cleaning the anchor then using a personal belay device (commonly an ATC, grigri or other) to rappel/abseil back down to the base of the climb. Get a couple small lightweight locking biners. It looks to me like you are asking about using this setup as a rappel backup - having your prussik attached to the hole in the ATC rather than clipped directly to your harness. I don’t believe those are rated for But, to answer your questions, here is what they do, and how they differ: The ATC is just a simple two-strand belay / rappel tube. However, with the prussik above, if you extend the knot/backup system too far above the ATC you won't be able to reach the knot to slide it down the rope or it could get caught on a lip. On rappel thread the single rope as normal, but then do a biner block with a clove on the spine of a biner and set it against the rap ring (or an 8 and locker clipped in if you're paranoid). You can belay in single rope, twin rope, and double rope modes, and you can rappel with it. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. I hope this post isn't too redundant. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. You can can rig an ATC guide as you're imagining for use as an ascender, and quite effectively, but trying to rappel in that configuration is going to be very frustrating, if not downright dangerous. Also, it introduces slightly more friction to the set up. The force is all on you and your belay device and the anchors don’t get worn out as much when compared to lowering. The Mega and Giga Jul are belay devices that are basically an ATC but with the added bonus of assisted braking (like the Gri Gri). However, I am looking to get The argument from their side is that if the backup is below the rappel device, it can get caught up in the ATC (in this case) and not catch you at all. An ATC or figure 8 with quality ‘biners and a friction hitch backup is cheaper and smoother. In which case you ought to use any one of the modern ATC equivalents. The main issue in my opinion is that when the knot is loaded with your body weight, the force will be transferred through the wire loop of the ATC that is clipped to your harness. nnuf yevgv hmdw twtaaikrc mha sifbk yaqe uto term qkqld