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Finger strength training climbing reddit. 11- sport climbing level in Colorado.
Finger strength training climbing reddit. The traditional method of building finger strength is deadhanging, and Reddit's rock climbing training community. edit: I just wanted to point out that in trying to make the point that isometric training is generally preferable for climbing I implied that it doesn't train your muscles. What injuries to the hands and fingers have you typically seen when training finger strength? The main things to watch for are finger and wrist injuries from overuse. com Jan 26, 2024 · It’s important to allow your fingers to adapt and strengthen naturally through consistent climbing. Some of the training exercises require rock-climbing grip training equipment or other exercise tools but most of them can be found in your local climbing gym or inexpensively online. What are the fingers? The human finger is a flexible, long and thin extension of the hand commonly referred to as the digits. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Oct 18, 2024 · Learn why strength training is great for climbers, with a complete 14-week training program to improve your climbing performance. Feb 24, 2023 · Finger strength, though critical to climbing performance, is just one component to climbing hard. Apr 24, 2023 · Enthusiasm for this ‘new’ training method has exploded, as attention is drawn to the incredible feats of strength happening at the intersection of rock climbing and grip sport (Yves Gravelle, Tanner Merkle and others), while at the same time, suspension type fingerboards and grip tools have become far more available. The fingers on the hands correspond to the toes of the feet. And right now you're a beginner at all of them, so it makes sense to "just climb" where you can work all of those facets. These bones are connected by joints and surrounded by a network of muscles, tendons, and ligaments, which allows smooth and coordinated movement. Any advice for training finger strength further? Due to my work schedule, actually climbing about once a week is pretty much the most I can do. Combining a finger program with mental conditioning and movement training can further optimize per How much time does a mild finger tendon injury need to heal while “at rest”? Can low-grade climbing help encourage my finger to heal faster? What back or pull exercises can I do instead of pull-ups/toes-to-bar to continue strength training for climbing? Can finger rolls be beneficial with a hurt finger or do I risk injuring further? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Nov 9, 2022 · Methods of Training Finger Strength There are essentially 4 different methods in which you can train your finger strength: Climbing: Bouldering or climbing on a board Campusing: Either on a campus board or boulder wall Fingerboarding: Isometric hangs Lifting: Taken from grip strength sports However each method comes with its own level of precision in training, in other words how easy it is to See full list on trainingforclimbing. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Hard bouldering with finger-intensive holds basically does the same thing as repeaters. Sorry for the wall of The Soviet climbers claimed that heavy finger rolls produce measurable gains in forearm circumference (a sign of muscle hypertrophy), whereas strength gains from fingerboard or campus training are primarily the result of neurological adaptations. And yes we are scared of falling. Tyler Nelson's new effective finger strength active recruitment and muscle coordination protocols to break that climbing plateau! Trying to train that way every day caused some finger injuries. 171K subscribers in the climbharder community. Finger strength training is not recommended without climbing 2x or more a week for a year due to the historical use of hangboards at body weight load. These first years are good to practice technique, improve general body strength and your mind while leading, but I'd avoid doing a lot of fingerboard training or too many crimpy routes. Have any of you tried both these methods? I'd appreciate your experiences, insights, and any The only answer is time and consistency, introduce finger boards when there’s no climbs available that are challenging your fingers strength, or you’re adding weight to max hangs (after minimum a year of solid climbing) You theoretically can finger board now and probably avoid injury, but the reward for risk is not worth it. Training strength usually requires isotonic exercises like pull-ups that involve moving the joint through its range of motion, so muscles get stronger at every angle. I’ve been climbing for ~4 years with a focus on bouldering and generally climb 3-4 days per week, now at a v5-7 level (indoors). 1. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. 5 pounds) with a body weight of 67kg (147. For example, Dicki/Patrick got Megos into rings training because they noticed his shoulders were holding him back in climbing. which is +37. However, there is no one-size-fits-all recommendation for when to start finger training. I've talked about resting and finger strength but the same applies to all types of climbing movement and climbing strengths. Someone with good core strength will be able to use that far away foothold on a steep wall and gain a little strength back in their arms whereas someone with poor core strength is only going to drain their strength more. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… Dec 21, 2022 · Build long-term finger strength while avoiding injury with this structured hangboard training plan designed by Steve Bechtel. You’re still brand new to climbing and tendons take a lot longer to get stronger than muscle. But most finger strength training research uses 22-25mm edges, and these edge depths, especially the 25mm, make more sense for recruitment than smaller edges. Your mileage may vary. He and Dicki emphasize mobility training quite a bit. 2 days ago · Explore the essential anatomy and function of finger joints, vital for your hand’s precision and everyday movement. This is an INCREDIBLY simplified view of capacity, recovery, maximal gains accounting when training for climbing-- with only 3 variables instead of 10+, no discussion of the real world (life stress, work, diet, sleep), social context, strength in any other system than fingers. Dedicated to increasing all our… Reddit's rock climbing training community. Aug 8, 2023 · Learn how to use the Tindeq Progressor to perform the perfect finger flexor Critical Force measurements and optimize your endurance training! Hangboard Training for finger strength and endurance Seems like there are a ton of different hangboard workouts out there and I'm not sure which exactly fit into what I'm training for. I don't really relate my hangboard numbers to my climbing, except in that I simply use it to rehab or improve finger strength. As long as you have a solid base of climbing experience (climbers just starting out will find maximum benefit from just climbing), finger strength training is an excellent addition to a climber’s training regimen. 131 votes, 78 comments. 172K subscribers in the climbharder community. I have incredibly weak fingers that I’m looking to strengthen. Climbing skill pretty much comes down to finger strength, bodyweight, technique, and endurance- so you need to work on all of them to get better. These names help when talking, counting, or showing actions. There have been a half dozen climbing specific studies that indicate grip trainer strength does not correlate to hangboard strength or to on-the-wall performance. Humans have five fingers on each hand and a significant feature in humans is the opposable thumb. I believe having greater awareness has helped me apply my strength gains more easily. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. 205 votes, 98 comments. If you're a boulderer, stick with the Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer 2. Holds in real climbing are very complex, and the forces you apply on them are even more complex. Beginners will definitely benefit from the extra gains, just be careful to give your connective tissues plenty of time to adjust. 5” tall, and currently weigh 195lbs. Do a lot of push exercises as well to prevent injury. It takes between 1 and 2 years to build enough finger strength to not injure them while climbing a lot and hard. But increased strength on its own did not equal increased grades for me. Hangboarding seems very unnecessary at a v5 level. 0. I’ve been climbing 3. Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Feb 15, 2024 · Arm-Lifting is a recent trend in finger strength training. Mar 10, 2023 · For most climbers, certainly the trained ones, finger training has tended to mean doing weighted hangs on a 20mm edge for either 7 or 10 seconds. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. Apr 7, 2024 · Introduction to Arm-Lifting finger strength training Finger strength training is essential if you want to improve your climbing. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. Max finger strength is your ability to grab a hold for five to 10 seconds. Reply reply JurrasicParfait • Reddit's rock climbing training community. Jun 29, 2025 · Each finger has a name that’s used in daily English: thumb, index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and pinky. Probably also campus boarding on small rungs? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Jun 25, 2020 · Pinpoint your biggest weaknesses and help you effectively target them Give you an instant automatic assessment and help you design a training plan tailored to your exact needs! If you're a sport/lead/trad climber, follow this link. Considering the toll that outdoor and board climbing takes on the fingers, how might one fit these around hangboarding? Would it be reasonable to only do 2 finger intensive workouts per week? Fitting into this category would be crimpy overhung outdoor routes, board climbing and hangboarding. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. Feb 6, 2024 · Each finger comprises three small bones called phalanges, which give the finger its shape and strength. TLDR: it’d be more beneficial to train open hand strength than full crimp strength. Could a person overcome a poor fingerstrength-to-weight ratio by hypertrophy training forearms, or is it really the most optimal to continue strength training fingers and keeping bodyweight on the downside? tl;dr: Hypertrophy training for forearms alongside fingerstrength training to overcome heavier bodyweight? Aug 14, 2019 · Siegrist spoke with Climbing to discuss possible injuries to beware of while training finger strength, as well as how to prevent and mitigate these injuries. Every video I've watched on finger strength assessment has subjects hanging on 20mm edges with various amounts of added weight or lengths of time. Thanks! Mar 26, 2025 · Fingers of steel are the foundation of harder climbing. Learn about their anatomy, function, conditions, and treatment. 11- sport climbing level in Colorado. How to improve finger strength. In climbing, the fingers remain relatively static after grabbing a hold, so it’s best to train finger strength in the most common positions: If non-climbing exercises are a no-go as a beginner like me, should I climb v2-3s and focus on footwork? Repeat them a bunch of times so that I get some strength training? Or should I do some beginner exercises on the hangboard or maybe some finger push ups and some pull ups? What's a good training regime for those? If you’re training finger strength (hangboard), always train open hand just to avoid injury and because it’s the one you and most people are worse at. . Their training plans were quite focused, both in terms of physical training and route pyramid. Reply reply I recently just started to be able to hang with a half crimp on a 20mm edge, but I don't think this routine is responsible for my finger strength gains, but it has allowed me to feel better on my climbing days to pull harder. How do you train specifically for sloper holds? I'm climbing in the 11a range but when it comes to big slopes I can't do much. The fingers are essential for grasping, manipulating objects, and performing fine motor tasks. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out Reddit's rock climbing training community. Sure maybe low volume hangboard could be beneficial and further improve your finger strength but the risk of overdue / training incorrectly isn't near as beneficial as just climbing more and learn how to effectively use it. Training with weight swinging tools (heavy clubs, kettlebell, mace) are good tools to add as a general fingers to wrist to elbow to shoulder girdle mechanics and in my experience over the last year of expirimenting with them has been great for upper body mechanics and mobility and forearm strength for sure. 7 pounds) with two arms. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. Grip type is extremely nuanced in actual climbing, while on hangboarding it is relatively one-dimensional. So I've been climbing for about 1 year, 9 months and recently have tried lattice finger strength testing on their 20mm fingerboard to find my 1RM. So do you need hypertrophy training? It depends on what constitutes hypertrophy training, but in general strength training is going to give you all the hypertrophy you need. Fingers are located on the distal part of the hand, extending from the palm. Nov 2, 2024 · Your finger joints are the most frequently used joints in the body. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. Of course training specific things helps a lot too. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. Initially, it was used for pinch blocks to isolate the thumb more effectively, but soon, climbers realized they could also use this approach for regular edges to spice up their finger strength training! The best climbing coaches and athletes, including Lattice Training, Tyler Nelson, and Yves Gravelle, use this state-of-the-art In experimenting with various types of finger training over the years (weighted hangboarding, repeaters, block pulls), I have come across concentric finger curls, and overcoming isometric pulls as a method to gain (potentially) more finger strength. MembersOnline • jendretz ADMIN MOD It's very easy to overdo grip strength training and get tendinitis. 166K subscribers in the climbharder community. Technique should be your main focus and some strength training around climbing specific muscle groups. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • Reddit's rock climbing training community. Perhaps have a look at r/climbharder which is dedicated to climbing training. If you identify a specific weakness, programing in 15 minutes to address that weakness In humans, the fingers are flexibly articulated and opposable, serving as an important organ of tactile sensation and fine movements, which are crucial to the dexterity of the hands and the ability to grasp and manipulate objects. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. Apparently the 20mm edge size is a good baseline standard for measuring finger strength. If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. I recently got the Metolius rock rings and have been using those regularly but can’t seem to get past the 4 finger hang. I like the idea of hypertrophy training using whatever you want, but the published data indicates that gripper training is at best tangentially beneficial to climbing. Nov 9, 2022 · Methods of Training Finger Strength There are essentially 4 different methods in which you can train your finger strength: Climbing: Bouldering or climbing on a board Campusing: Either on a campus board or boulder wall Fingerboarding: Isometric hangs Lifting: Taken from grip strength sports However each method comes with its own level of precision in training, in other words how easy it is to Reddit's rock climbing training community. Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. FINGER meaning: 1 : one of the five long parts of the hand that are used for holding things; 2 : one of the four that are not the thumb Nov 21, 2022 · Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing capacity, endurance, and strength-to-weight ratio. As to whether the gripper exercisers increase your grip strength, I think it depends on specificity, if you need a specific type of grip strength you would be better off with an exercise that matches the specific demands of your sport or job. Hangboarding will be better for training crimp strength than climbing. Here’s when to call your doctor about swollen fingers. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Edit: thank you for everyone who seriously answered! Finger Strength Training I’d like some feedback on integrating hangboarding to my climbing/training routine. The home of Climbing on reddit. My forearms like they’re getting stronger but my fingers feel stagnant. All of your effort goes into maintaining a strict crimp, and that allows you to best overload the finger muscles that hold a crimp. It has been shown to reduce injury risk by exposing the fingers to supramaximal loads in a controlled environment and to improve performance by allowing you to climb harder and more frequently 1. Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at slopers because his shoulders are weak. 5 years, am 5’ 8. Finger training doesn’t make climbing magically way easier, but it does make holding small holds MUCH more comfortable and that will allow you to climb a lot of climbs you couldn’t before. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Training finger strength, weighted pull ups, shoulder stability/strength, and flexibility all helped me improve. This will give you a basic idea of how hard you should be able to boulder and how much time you should invest in strength training to progress. Mar 23, 2023 · Learn Dr. Know your hand anatomy! 4 days ago · Swollen fingers (dactylitis) can be caused by too much salt, heat, or a serious health condition. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Reddit's rock climbing training community. I did a short cycle this year with recruitment pulls as outlined by Tyler, FWIW I hit my personal best on finger strength after this cycle after a pretty long layoff from consistent climbing and training (~18months). Dedicated to increasing all our… In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. Jan 5, 2022 · Tools Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer The Finger Strength Analyzer will allow you to see how strong your fingers are. I've only been climbing for about a year and am climbing outdoors at a V3 bouldering and 5. MembersOnline • Beauboon ADMIN MOD Has anyone trained wrist or forearm strength in particular and noticed useful carry over to improvements in climbing? Has anybody has success with training this longer term? I recently see increasing content online relating to isolated training of the wrists via forearm training inspired by forearm training tools and drills with the wrist wrench and heavy roller style exercises from the likes Specific exercises will newrly always beat out non specific exercises for the specific thing they train. What would you… Hello climbing community! I'm seeking your input on optimizing finger strength training. Climb V3-V5 indoors (V4-V5 on Vert/Slab/sloper/burley climbs or basically anything that doesn’t require true finger strength, V3 on any significant incline/overhang). What will help you best is learning technique. 5kg (82. This statement seems reasonable since the heavy finger rolls cause repeated, high-intensity eccentric and concentric contractions of the forearm This is a list of 12 great training exercises that come from training books, interviews with professional climbers, social media, Reddit and some of my climbing friends. 28 votes, 75 comments. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… I was rather surprised, and somewhat dismayed, to find that my fingers are apparently incredibly weak. Looking for some advice. Thanks for this, inspired me to swap from barbell finger rolls to tension block finger curls on a lat pull down machine. Dec 31, 2024 · Fingers are classified as digits, with four fingers on each hand alongside an opposable thumb. Some climbers suggest waiting until you can comfortably climb at V4, while others recommend waiting for at least two years of climbing experience. It takes 2 or 3 months of climbing before your ligaments start to strengthen at all. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. Hi guys, as the title asks, does anyone have any tips on how to improve my finger strength? I love climbing but my fingers ache so much after a few climbs. The routines specifically designed for climbing usually have 5 to 10 s fingertip hangs etc to prevent overuse. I generally climb v5, 11b-11c outside and I can only pull 40-45lbs for 10 reps and it feels like it's working my climbing muscles a lot harder than doing deadlifts with the tension block with 90-100lbs. So repeaters with added weight and max hangs are going to do it anyway. Aug 14, 2010 · Learn the proper names of each finger and how to accurately describe the location of your hand pain using this practical example. lfgfbqzjuuifjbxiiwtwxrejahdgypqsgivwiqawmp