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Finger strength climbing reddit. Hangboarding targets this important element of climbing.
Finger strength climbing reddit. Mar 26, 2025 · Finger strength gains can come from any climbing that has moves or holds that are taxing on the fingers—like bouldering at your limit—but the extraneous movement won’t translate directly to finger strength. Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. It is usually recommended to start finger training after a year of climbing. Do this after a thorough warm-up twice a week. However, I've always felt as though finger strength is disproportionately holding me back. I train grip maintenance / pre-hab exercises 2 days a week. Recovery time is critical for strength and injury prevention. 5 hangs, 10 seconds each, with 2-3 minutes rest between each hang. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. Finger strength I’ve been indoor climbing about once a week for 5 months now and seem to be struggling a lot with finger strength. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. As someone who has a gym background you might want to make sure you're not solving your problems with just strength. This involves a hard session of fingerboard and campus board and pinch grip exercises done in a sort of superset rotation. Things like finger extensors, pronators, easy grippers, rice bucket work, baoding balls etc. Check it out! Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. From what I've read, it's way too early (in terms of time spent climbing and grade) for me to start hangboarding. Currently climbing V4 consistently, did my first v5 recently, and can flash most V3s. Nov 21, 2022 · Everyone wants strong fingers, but not everyone understands just how to do it right. Hangboarding targets this important element of climbing. I have the luxury of being able to workout at work and have been working out consistently for the last 3-4 months but really seem to struggle with my finger strength. Nov 9, 2022 · Methods of Training Finger Strength There are essentially 4 different methods in which you can train your finger strength: Climbing: Bouldering or climbing on a board Campusing: Either on a campus board or boulder wall Fingerboarding: Isometric hangs Lifting: Taken from grip strength sports However each method comes with its own level of precision in training, in other words how easy it is to See full list on thewanderingclimber. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. If you r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. Train on climbing days so you can rest your hands at least one day after. Add or subtract as much weight as needed so that you can hang at least 6 seconds, but fail before 12 seconds. Max hangs on a 14-20mm edge. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. It's not to say just climbing won't improve your finger strength, steep crimpy board style climbing in particular will certainly give you strong fingers, however it's hard to maintain the correct progressive stimulus for continued finger . Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out Around about your grade I reached an impasse where finger strength was the limiting factor, I started hangboarding and it made a massive difference to me. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. That said, you still have room to focus more on techniques instead of strength. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. com The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Reddit's rock climbing training community. I'm at V5-6 and just consider finger now to try to break into V7. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. Sometimes weighted. Feb 17, 2023 · I train climbing grip strength one day a week only. tjedimlihfyvxerqzffeikwciraqukkzquhggttbreqqmcwo